Kapiolani
Community College
Diamond Journal 2004
At the ripe old age of twenty-one, when I thought I was indestructible,
my best friends, Mark and Eon, and I each bought motorcycles with the wild dream
of riding them all the way from Oregon to Costa Rica. It was going to be the
greatest adventure ever!
Tied to each of our bikes were a backpack and a guitar. Clothed in our leather
jackets and chaps, we took our time and cruised down the California coastline,
camping off the main road in out of the way places to conserve money. However,
we each encountered mechanical problems during this leg of the journey. Mark’s
brakes went out every hundred miles due to a leaky brake line, Eon’s bike
had some mysterious electrical short that would randomly kill his engine, and
I got a flat front tire. We were not to be deterred! Every day brought us a
little closer to Mexico, and from there, Costa Rica, baby!
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I spent the quiet, solitary hours on my bike dreaming about the beaches and
the surf. What was I going to do once I got there, for the long term? To be
honest I had never really thought about it. My mind was filled with cold cervesas
and pretty little senoritas. At twenty-one, and full of youthful vigor, the
only thing that mattered to me was to live life for the moment -- instant gratification.
“ Don’t go into Latin America, Mike,” my father had ominously
warned. “They’ll take ya for everything you’ve got. Once you
get past civilization, you’re nothing but an opportunity to make a profit
to every thief south of the border. You’re fresh meat to some of those
people and nothing else. Travel across the States. It’s safer; trust me.”
My father’s advice fell on unreceptive ears, and foolishly I rode off
with my friends.
We entered Mexico at the border town of Mexicali. The foreign sounds, smells,
and sights, let me know immediately that I’d stepped into a different
world with different rules of conduct. I was beginning to regret not postponing
the trip for another 6 months in order to take some more Spanish classes. Yet
patience and planning are not often characteristics of a person driven by impulse.
We traveled south through purple colored hills spotted with sage and mesquite
to the town of San Felipe. Blue skies over head, and an open road full of adventure
lay before us. Once we were stopped at a military checkpoint in the middle of
nowhere. The young pimple-faced soldiers were friendly and only wanted to make
sure we didn’t have any guns or drugs. Having neither, we continued on
our journey with the wind in our hair and our worries behind us. Little did
we know what was to come.
The town of San Felipe is small compared with Mexicali or Tijuana, but it’s
still lively. Situated on the Gulf of California, it was a popular spot for
American students looking for a good time on spring break. The three of us thundered
down the main street, drawing attention from the local street venders who were
wanted to make a quick peso. Then four very hot ladies drove past us in a convertible.
The driver beeped her horn and they all waved enthusiastically, beckoning us
onward. I thought, “Mexico is definitely my kind of country!”
We parked our bikes at the beach, and washed down our fish tacos with cold Tecate
brew. Aside from the annoying street vendors who tried to sell us every kind
of worthless crap imaginable, the day was perfect. Mark and Eon wanted to buy
some hand made cerrachies, a kind of leather sandal that has a piece of old
tire tread for a sole. So I stayed and guarded the bikes while they went shopping.
“What a perfect day,” I thought as I munched my fourth fish taco
and waved off a pesky street vendor.
Returned from their shopping spree and sporting new cerrachies, Mark and Eon
unstrapped their guitars and started jamming on the beach. Thus relieved of
guard duty, I grabbed a new hundred-dollar bill and went in search of a bank,
and the four chicks in the convertible. Instead of a bank, I found a small exchange
booth about a block from the beach. “That will do,” I thought to
myself.
As I approached the window, I announced “Hola amigo, como estas,”
while grinning stupidly. The man behind the wire mesh window raised a sweaty
eyebrow and gazed at me without emotion. I handed him my new hundred-dollar
bill and asked for 50 dollars in pesos. With skepticism the teller snatched
the bill and began to hold it up to a light. Then with a special pen, he made
a small mark in the upper right hand corner. As he verified the bill’s
authenticity, I noticed several counterfeit 20’s, 50’s, and 100
dollar bills surrounding the perimeter of the window.
I spied a fake three-dollar note in the corner, sporting the face of a smug
looking Bill Clinton. I chuckled to myself as I looked at ol’ slick Willy
on that three-dollar bill. As I did so, the clerk told me my money was no good.
“What!” I exclaimed, and tried to explain in broken Spanish that
I had gotten that hundred from a bank in America. In spite of my passionate
defense, the man insisted that my money was counterfeit.
After retrieving the bill from him, I returned to my bike to get another hundred,
this time an old wrinkled one. “Can you believe it? The guy at the exchange
booth said my money was no good!” I was incredulous, but Mark and Eon
just laughed and continued to play Neil Young’s “Needle and the
Damage Done” under a palm-thatched umbrella.
Like an idiot, I returned to the same exchange booth. However, this time there
was a different teller behind the window. This man was thin and rather pious
looking. He greeted me with a weak smile, and I impatiently handed him my crumpled
hundred, demanding 50 dollars worth of pesos. With a meticulous eye, he scanned
the note just as the first teller had, and with a nodd of approval he gave me
fifty dollars in pesos and another fifty in U.S. currency.
Genuinely grateful, I thanked him, and was about to walk away when out of the
corner of my eye I noticed that the teller wore a small gold cross about his
neck. Completely out of my normal character, I asked him if he believed in Jesus.
Instantly the man’s face lit up and his eyes came alive as he went into
a lengthy discourse about his Inglasia (church) that was down the street. Missing
the majority of what he said, I thanked him again and walked away, not knowing
that in the near future this unobtrusive looking man would deliver me from one
of the scariest moments in my life.
Reuniting with Mark and Eon, we jumped back on our bikes in order to acquaint
ourselves with San Felipe, and maybe even find those girls in the convertible.
Ah, what freedom, what a life, no worries, no bills, no responsibilities! These
euphoric thoughts were shattered by the screeching sound of sirens as multiple
police trucks surrounded us. From every direction and out of every street they
came at us; even police on foot were racing out from behind buildings. We were
trapped with nowhere to run.
What did we do? I demanded to know. Had I run a red light or something? The
police, offering no explanation, only told us to get off our bikes and lie on
the ground.
I was instantly separated from my friends and told to empty the contents of
my pockets on the hood of a nearby police truck. On my belt I wore a nice hunting
knife that my dad had given me for Christmas. Seeing the sheathed blade, the
officer searching me quickly took the knife and said “Muy mal, muy mal”
(very bad, very bad).
“It was a gift from my Father!” I exclaimed, but my words went unacknowledged.
Next a huge, hairy, paw-like hand reached across me and took the keys to my
motorcycle. The swollen extremity belonged to an equally disproportioned police
officer; he was easily the largest man I’d ever stood next to. This gargantuan
piece of humanity nimbly jumped onto my motorcycle, flattening the shocks in
the process, and, without a word, he drove away. I stood there and watched everything
I owned drive away, my bike, guitar, clothes, passport, money, everything. They
even took the change from my pockets.
Thus relieved of my worldly possessions, I was loaded into a cage on the back
of a flatbed truck. After locking me in, a young officer with a wispy looking
mustache grabbed the back of the cage and leveled an AK 47 at my head. As the
truck started up, I began to recall all the horror stories I’d ever heard
about prisons in Mexico. I broke into a cold sweat as my dad’s admonition
came to mind, “Don’t go into Latin America. Travel across the States;
it’s safer.” At the end of my rope, with nowhere to turn, I unashamedly
began to pray, “Lord Jesus, help!”
Abruptly the truck stopped, and I was hurriedly unloaded from the cage. To my
amazement and relief they hadn’t brought me to the jail at all, but instead
I was in front of the exchange booth. Surrounded by police, I was brought before
the window adorned with counterfeit bills. Bill Clinton still had that same
smug look on his face, and with a chill that raised the hair on the back of
my neck, I began to understand what had happened. The first teller who had refused
to exchange my new hundred-dollar bill, possibly because of the new larger portrait,
had gone to the police. Then having my description, the police went hunting
for an American biker trying to use fake money. My fears were confirmed, as
my pious looking amigo behind the glass retrieved the bill I’d given him
and began an extensive examination of it.
“The money’s good; I got it from a bank in America,” I petitioned
with desperation in my voice. The police captain whirled on me, saying, “Is
this all the money you have?” I could feel the captain’s eyes pressing
for more money. He smelled of sweat and cheap tobacco. Suspecting that if he
knew the amount of money I was carrying he’d confiscate it, I said, “Yes,
that’s all the money I have.” This was technically true because
Andre the Giant had ridden off with everything I owned.
Returning to the teller, the captain began to yell in rapid Spanish. In reaction,
the teller began a second and then a third examination of the bill. “Es
falso, si? Dinero es falso, dinero es falso!” As the captain pressured
the teller to say that my money was fake, I began to see myself locked away
in some rancid cell with feces on the floor and having to fight with some guy
named Juan for food. I envisioned the captain and Andre the Giant extorting
thousands of dollars from my parents in order to release me.
Fearing incarceration, I argued, “No, it’s good; it’s not
counterfeit.” The captain brushed me aside like a fly, and the wispy mustached
boy with the AK 47 took my arm. Then my pious looking friend, whose name I never
learned, looked me in the eye, looked at the money before him, looked at the
captain, looked back to the money and said, “No, el hombre’s dinero
es bien.”
The captain’s shoulders sagged with defeat as he simply shook his head.
Turning to me, he extended his hand and said, “Mucho pardon, senor.”
Without animosity, I shook hands with him and watched in amazement as he made
a circular hand signal in the air. In response, from some hidden recess came
my bike, dwarfed by the huge frame of its occupant. With skill he drove up onto
the sidewalk and deftly tossed me back my keys. Everything was there! The captain
even went over to his truck and retrieved my knife. Oh the joy of being vindicated!
Within an hour, I found Mark and Eon, who had been searching in vain for an
embassy the whole time, and after a quick beer for my parched throat, we shook
the dust off our feet, leaving San Felipe behind forever.
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