Kapiolani
Community College Horizons 2003
Kapiolani
Community College
Horizons 2003
“With their bright-colored garments, great spurs clanking
about their heels, and knives stuck as daggers at their waists, they look a
very different race of men from what might be expected from their name of Gauchos,
or simple countryman. Their politeness is excessive; they never drink their
spirits without expecting you to taste it, but whilst making their exceedingly
graceful bow, they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cut your throat.”
This was the description Charles Darwin gave of the gauchos in journals he wrote
after his visit to Uruguay in 1832 (Marion Morrison, Enchantment of the World
63).
I was born and raised in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay. I lived there the
first twenty years of my life. Montevideo is a busy, cosmopolitan city; therefore,
I was never really exposed to life in the countryside. That is the reason I
decided to do my research on gauchos, because they represent a great part of
my country’s history, traditions, and customs. La Cultura Gauchesca (gaucho
culture) is rich but often forgotten. Fortunately, I have many people in my
family who experienced the life of a gaucho first hand. My grandmother’s
father was a gaucho, so I asked her to participate in my study. My grandmother’s
interview proved to be vital to my research. Her knowledge of country life and
gaucho culture is amazing. I also interviewed my mother and father. I chose
my mother because of her vast knowledge of Uruguayan history and my father because
he was able to experience the work of a gaucho for a couple of years. My father
was also raised in the city, but one of his college friends owned a ranch so
he was invited to participate in some of the work, which took place during the
season of esquila and yerra.
I was able to carry on my research thanks to the advanced technology we possess
today. All my informants live in Uruguay. My interviews were done through ICQ
and Dial Pad, which make international communication very effective and inexpensive.
The Republica Oriental del Uruguay is the smallest independent country in Latin
America. It shares its borders to the northeast with Brazil and to the west
with Argentina. The Rio de la Plata estuary and the Atlantic Ocean wash the
southern and southeastern shores. The Uruguay River, which separates Uruguay
from Argentina gives our country its name. It is thought that the name Uruguay
had its origins from the native language of the people who first inhabited this
area. The possible meaning of the word, uruguay, is thought to be river of the
painted birds, which to me, makes sense due to the large variety of colorful
birds that are native to the area.
A few thousand indigenous people whom the European conquistadors called Charruas,
Minuanes, Bohanes, Guenoas, Yaros, Chanaes, and Guaranies inhabited Uruguay
before its discovery by Spanish sailors in 1516. These people also inhabited
the neighboring territories of Argentina and Brazil. Charruas were the largest
ethnic group inhabiting what was then called La Banda Oriental (The Eastern
Bank). The Spaniards used this name in reference to the location of Uruguay
on the eastern shores of the river. This tribe had the cultural level of superior
hunters. The majority were hunters and gatherers. Their character was described
as brave, proud, and ferocious. The Spaniards also noted they used beautiful
canoes for transportation and fishing. All these characteristics are very important
because they are some of the traits Gauchos would retain from their native ancestors.
The arrival of Europeans, who brought with them horses and cattle, completely
modified the habitat, demography and customs of the indigenous population. Uruguay
has no mountains or volcanoes, no rain forest, jungles, swamps or desserts.
The whole of the territory is predominantly grassland and small rolling hills.
This kind of landscape is called the pampa. The fertile soils and benevolent
climate of the Uruguayan grasslands allowed for the growth and development of
important breeds of cattle, sheep and horses. Some of these animals escaped
from the Spanish settlements and proliferated into enormous wild herds. This
wild, unclaimed abundance of animals gave birth to what we call El Gaucho. The
horses were caught, tamed, and then used to capture cattle. Gauchos were often
outlaws or refugees who ventured inland, away from the settlements on the coast.
These men were characterized for their toughness and resilience.
The name gaucho is thought to have its origins from the indigenous word huacho.
The meaning of this word, which comes from the Guarani language, is “orphan.”
To me, this name suits the essence of the character of the Gaucho, solitary
figures that were neither loved nor ruled by anyone. The gauchos belong to the
ethnic group we call mestizos. They are a mixture of European and indigenous
ancestry. There is also a small percentage of mulatto gauchos who descended
from Europeans and African slaves who fled Brazil and made the Uruguayan territory
their home. Their subculture developed in the rural environment revolving around
cattle and horses. These two important assets for their subsistence greatly
shaped every aspect of their lives, from their foods, clothes and shelter to
their arts and games.
Gauchos became highly skilled horsemen, and their horses became their best companions
and possession. The gaucho never parted from his horse. He performed most of
his daily activities on horseback. It is said that a gaucho without a horse
is a gaucho without legs. Even his physical appearance testifies to an equestrian
lifestyle. All gauchos are bowlegged. The native Creole horse is called caballo
criollo or pingo. This breed of horse is of compact appearance and is usually
ridden half-tamed. The saddle used on these horses is not the hard European
saddle but a soft leather one, which gauchos usually cover with sheepskin fleece
for extra comfort. During the night, this saddle could also be used as bedding.
As a child I remember always looking forward to our national holidays, not only
because I would have a day off from school, but because I would be attending
the parades around the city. My favorite event was that of the gauchos riding
their horses all the way to the capital to display the beauty of their animals
as well as their skill in controlling them. It was an amazing show of elegance
and patriotism. Many aspects of the gaucho catch one’s eye! They are often
tall, slender and have an elegant, distinguished posture while riding their
horses. Their hair is usually dark, and almost every gaucho that I have ever
seen wears a mustache. They don’t usually smile while parading and always
keep their heads held high. The pride of the gaucho is always reflected on his
face.
GAUCHO ATTIRE
Their attire hasn’t changed much over the years, even though the materials
used have. They wear a broad brimmed black hat, which they fasten under their
chin with a soft leather strap called a barbijo. Their shirt is white and often
embroidered or adorned with white lace. Around their necks they wear a square
handkerchief, which is folded in a triangular manner and tied over the collar
of the shirt. The colors of this panuelo vary but are usually red, black or
blue. Their bottoms are baggy pants called bombachas, which are tucked into
their boots. Bombachas came to be used later on with the influence of immigrants.
The original pants were white with a lace fringe adorning the bottom. These
were called calzonzillos. They would also wear a chiripa, which is a large piece
of black cloth, worn in a diaper fashion between their legs and held at their
waist with a wide belt. Nowadays these kinds of pants are only used during festivities.
The bombacha has replaced them as everyday working trousers. Early gauchos wore
handmade boots, which were made from the skin of the legs of a young horse.
An incision was made from the bottom of the footlock up to the thigh of the
horse. Then the hair was removed from the leather. While the skin was still
flexible and moist, it was fitted to the Gaucho’s foot and leg. These
boots were called bota de potro. They had covered, or partially covered toes.
His boots are specially designed for riding, but aren’t very comfortable
for walking purposes. This traditional boot was later on left aside for the
more economical European manufactured boot.
During the cold weather the gaucho carries a poncho made of tightly intertwined
wool. This wool is untreated so it retains its impermeable qualities. The poncho
not only serves as a coat for the cold or cover for the rain, but also as a
blanket while sleeping out in the open. In the early days a gaucho would also
use his poncho as a shield during knife fights and as a disguise for his feared
knife.
The gaucho’s traditional attire also has many accessories. Some of them
are used all the time, while others are displayed only on special occasions.
On their waists they wear a thick leather belt called tirador. This provides
them with back support during their working hours, as well as a place to tuck
in their money, documents and knife. During special events this belt is adorned
with silver coins and other ornaments. On their boots they wear spurs, which
can vary in size and materials. These, as well as the rebenque, which is an
elaborate leather whip, allowed the gaucho to have control over their often
ill-broken horses. But by far the most important accessory and tool of the gaucho
is his knife or facon. This is worn on the back tucked under the tirador and
is used for killing, skinning and castrating animals. It is also used for eating,
repairing fences, and in certain occasions, as a weapon. This knife has highly
elaborate handles and sheaths which are often made of silver with details engraved
in gold. The gaucho’s prestige and wealth is often reflected in his rural
attire, his knife, spurs and tirador.
My father has a wonderful collection of facones. Some of them even have engraving
and decorations on the blade itself. The handles and sheaths make these knives
very heavy .Their blades are kept razor sharp at all times. It is quite remarkable
how these gauchos can maneuver these huge knives with such precision. As part
of his collection he also has a set of boleadoreas, which is a set of three
stone balls, each the size of a plum, attached to each other by a long rawhide
thong. These were originally used by native Charruas to capture wild ostriches,
and then implemented by gauchos to capture cattle. The boleadoras were thrown
at the legs of the animal in order to entangle them. These were later on replaced
by the lasso, which gauchos maneuver with grace and accuracy.
The lifestyle of the gaucho has changed somewhat over the years. In the beginning
they led a free-spirited and carefree life due to the abundance of the grasslands.
Their horses provided them with transportation and were an important tool to
capture sheep and cattle. In turn, cattle and sheep provided them with a source
of food, clothing, shelter and even other commodities. A single cow could provide
the gaucho with milk and fuel while still alive. After the animal was slaughtered,
its meat would be salted to avoid its decomposition. A single cow could feed
a gaucho for quite a long time. The leather would be cured and used to make
saddles, reins, and whips for his horse. Leather was also used to make furniture,
especially their chairs and bed, which is called a catre; The animal’s
horns were polished and used to store tobacco, sugar and yerba mate. They were
also used as hangers when stuck in the walls of his rancho which was usually
made of adobe and straw. The animal’s hooves were also polished and utilized
in various ways; one of them as a musical instrument called a pezunero. Their
surplus of food and products were then traded for tobacco, yerba mate and alcohol.
Having all their primary needs taken care of, they had plenty of time to spare.
Their free time was spent at the pulperias, which were rural taverns. There,
the gaucho could drink his spirits and gamble. One of his favorite games was
truco which is similar to poker. Another popular game was the taba which is
played with a cow’s knucklebone. This was thrown, and depending on which
side it would land, it meant luck or loss. Unfortunately, since these games
involved alcohol and money, they sometimes got out of hand and ended in dangerous
knife fights.
Since gauchos did not pay tributes they often avoided the authorities. That
is why we are unable to know exactly how many gauchos were in Uruguay at any
one time. For the same reason, gauchos did not legalize their marriages or send
their children to school. That is the reason why many of them were illiterate
and never learned other occupations. Their skills were passed down from generation
to generation. The only time gauchos came forward and changed their daily routines
was to join the fight for independence. Gauchos then became renowned for their
bravery, loyalty and excellent battle skills. This brought a change of status
for the gaucho. He was now, for the first time, made part of a society who no
longer saw him as an outlaw but a heroic patriot. From then on, gauchos not
only saw changes in their status but also in their lifestyle. Fencing and modernization
limited his free-spirited life. He was absorbed by large estancias that were
legally entitled to the land and the animals on it. The gaucho became known
as a peon or cowhand. His work became intense and he now worked for a salary.
The lucky ones were able to work all year round tending herds. Others became
seasonal workers and had to find other occupations for the rest of the year.
This is still the present day situation for many gauchos, and so the younger
generations are now encouraged to leave the rural environment for an easier
life working in town. Sadly enough, we are losing one of our national symbols
to progress and necessity.
I was able to get a good description of some of the gaucho’s work because
my father experienced it first-hand. For three consecutive years he participated
in seasonal work on a ranch that belongs to one of his childhood friends. For
him, it was a good way to get out of monotonous city life and experience something
totally different. One of the activities in which he took part of was la yerra.
This is the time when cattle are marked and bulls are castrated. The other important
seasonal activity was la esquila, which is carried out in the spring. During
this period sheep are inoculated, bathed, and then their wool is sheared and
placed in big barns for storage. Work usually started about 4 a.m. with a quick
breakfast consisting of homemade bread and mate. Yerba mate is a bitter tea,
which is placed in a hollowed gourd and then sipped through a tube, which has
a strainer at the end. This tube is called a bombilla and is often finely engraved.
Boiling water is constantly added to the gourd and then passed around. Mate
is a good digestive and a low cost stimulant because of its caffeine content.
It also dulls the appetite, which allows workers to labor longer with less solid
food. Mate also brings people together. Since many share the bombilla, offering
and accepting a mate is a gesture of trust and friendship.
During breakfast el Capataz (foreman) assigns his workers different tasks. Work
usually lasts until sundown, when everybody would gather around a fire for a
communal meal. The meal consists of asado con cuero, which is beef wrapped in
hide and slowly roasted over coals, and more mate. It is said that the consumption
of yerba mate in Uruguay is about 10 Ib per person, per month. At the end of
the zafra or season, celebrations and festivities are held on each estancia.
These festivities are characterized by singing, dancing and feasting on rural
traditional foods. It is amazing, but after two to three weeks of intense work
at the estancia my father came home more relaxed and happy than ever. He explained
to us that the kind of work he performed was physically exhausting, but it was
mentally refreshing and relaxing.
I was also able to take part in rural festivities during each Easter week while
I was still living in Uruguay. Easter week is also called Semana Criolla and
is an important rural event held in the capital. Breeders from all over the
country compete for the best animal. Modern technology and innovative equipment
are also displayed here. My favorite events are the competitions. One of them
is to see how fast a person can shear wool off of a sheep in a single piece
without cutting the animal. It is amazing to see the accuracy and speed of these
men. Another wonderful event is the taming of the horses by some very brave
gauchos. This event could be compared to the American rodeo. These gauchos also
participate in other games to show off their equestrian skills. One of these
games is called sortija, and it consists of a metal ring, which is placed high
on a wooden arch. Gauchos have to catch the small ring with a long wooden lance.
This takes great horseman skills as well as a steady arm and sharp eyesight.
The reward is always a kiss from a girl he chooses among the spectators. I was
once chosen by a handsome gaucho who got down on his knees, gave me a carnation,
and after I gave him his well deserved kiss, he took me for a ride on his beautiful
horse. I was quite young so I felt embarrassed by the whole situation. Now as
an adult and looking back, I feel quite honored to have been one of the lucky
girls who got the opportunity to kiss a gaucho.
Good food, singing and dancing also takes place during this festival. Payadas
are improvisational poetic musical duels that allow the gauchos to demonstrate
their creativity and musical talent. They are sung to the rhythm of the guitar.
History, popular culture and current events are some of the many themes that
find expression in these kinds of songs. I always found payadas to be clever
and amusing, especially if two Gauchos were trying to vie with each other in
what is called contrapunto. This once a year festival brings together two very
different lifestyles. The busy, monotonous city life and the peaceful, relaxed
ways of the country. This gives a city girl like me the opportunity to savor
some of the joys and wonders of our beautiful countryside. It also gives me
the opportunity to meet some of the people, who are helping our nation to remain
true to its origins.
The often-romanticized figure of the gaucho has survived through time and numerous
changes, but its essence has always remained true. With the advance of technology
many gauchos are finding less working opportunities, and life in the country
is becoming harsher and less rewarding. But, even though gauchos are slowly
disappearing they will always be a part of Uruguayan folklore. Poems, literature
and legends will always keep this heroic countryman immortalized in history.
Poems such as this one:
I
am a son of the rolling plain
A Gaucho born and bred
And it is my pride to live as free
as the bird that cleaves the sky.
(Jose Henandez El Gaucho Martin Fierro. 26)
Photo courtesy of Marisa Adam
A gaucho demonstrates his talent with the guitar at
one of the many festivals in the Uruguyan countryside.
Home |
Acknowledgements |
Contents |
Index |